Selling Dreams: One Hundred Years of Fashion Photography
Interesting exhibition at the V&A giving an overview of the last hundred years of
fashion photograph.
The title comes
from a quote by Vogue photographer Irving Penn that photographers are “Selling
dreams not clothes” and that quite sets up a tension throughout the show
between photographers and those who are commissioning them. At least two Vogue
editors are reported as asking photographer to concentrate on the clothes more.
I love the quote from editor Carmel Snow “You are not here to make art, you are
here to show the buttons and bows”!
I think I am with the editors! I think the art
of fashion photography is showing off the clothes and I dislike pictures where
you can barely see what a model is wearing. They are still good photographs
just not fashion photographs.
This show was a
bit of a quick romp through the genre from Edward Steichen’s 1911 pictures of
dressed by Poiret seen as the first fashion photographs though to the images
from the 1980s more interested in reality than air brushing.
I loved a 1950s
shot by Frank Horvat of a woman in a suit with the shadow of a head of a man across
it and a studio show by Tim Walker of a model with a giant camera and standing
on huge contact prints.
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